Diotima Brings Undone Jamaican Glam to New York Fashion Week

“This collection is about how you become a little undone throughout the day,” Diotima founder and creative director Rachel Scott tells Vogue barely an hour before her label’s FW24 presentation was set to begin. “Maybe your day starts at 4 a.m., and by end of a party, you’re a little bit undone.”

The Diotima woman—at her core—does what she wants, wears what she wants, and looks good doing it. This idea led Scott to design a collection inspired by how this woman can remain true to herself throughout anything—be it a long night, or simply a cold winter day like today…while still wearing the intricate crochet and stitching one might associate with resort wear. 

One of the references that became a through-line between the collection and beauty look was the idea of a church girl. “So I guess it kind of started, you know, seeing these church women in Jamaica that we’re quite inspired by, and on Sundays they kind of wear this fascinator; but it’s also thinking of this woman who’s in the corner of the club—she’s kind of mysterious,” stylist Marika-Ella Ames says. Maybe it’s a hat leaning over her eye, or her hair that’s covering her face. Pro hairstylist Joey George brought the latter to life literally by creating a horseshoe shape along the forehead, tied into place with an elastic cord, and sprayed with a generous amount of Kevin.Murphy’s Shimmer.Shine spray to create a glossy reflection. “It creates that jellyfish wave in a modern twist,” says George, reimagining Scott’s almost oceanic billowing, draping fabrics. “It also could look very church lady.” 

Makeup, too, leaned into Scott’s Jamaican roots. Artist Yumi Lee took cues from the tropics—leaning into earthy tones and natural flushes of color in partnership with MERIT. Eyes were the standout feature where Lee mixed together brick, brown, and black hues for an statement liner smoked out along the upper and lower lash lines. “Sometimes it looks a bit red; on others it looks a bit gray,” she says. Complexion remained glowing and skinlike via MERIT’s Complexion Stick, brought to life with a hint of Flush Balm along the cheeks and eyes. On lips, Lee opted for a silky matte texture—”not too shiny, but not too matte”—in two redish, coral hues with a a new MERIT lip product launching soon. The effect was lived in, minimal, and tropical.

“She’s been dancing, she’s been sweating, she’s been kissing whoever. She’s been having fun and not worrying about her look,” Scott says with a laugh. “So there’s still the element of sexiness there, but it’s still mysterious and it’s the exploration of this woman.”

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